Category: Eating out

Posted on

A day out in Halifax: The Chow Down and The Moorcock Inn

I’m embarrassed to say I have never been to Halifax so we decided on a day of exploring before heading to the Moorcock Inn later on.  Turns out that was a great idea as the Chow Down was on all weekend at The Piece Hall.   If you get the chance go.  Make a day of it, explore the impressively refurbished Piece Hall with its multitude of independent shops, go to the industrial museum and watch quality street being made and lap up the atmosphere at the Chow Down whilst eating a Lebanese chicken kebab, bao buns, deep fried doughnutty goodness and drinking Magic Rock High Wire in the sun.

Then off we went to The Moorcock.  There is always a risk in going somewhere that a few people have recommended to you.  You build up a picture in your mind that can lead to utter disappointment if it doesn’t match up.  However, when both Marina O’Loughlin and Josh Overington tell you about somewhere it is generally wise to listen.  I must admit when we arrived and looked at the slightly tired exterior of this isolated pub, high on the moor, I began to doubt we’d made the right decision.  Though we all know you should never judge a book by its cover and as we walked through the door I’m glad I didn’t.

When it comes to dining out, some might argue against understatement, preferring sophistication and style. I, however love simplicity; ingredients being given room to breathe and tell their story.  For me that’s what sophistication is.  The confidence to keep it simple and not relying on irritating foams or swirls. 

Part of the story of The Moorcock is the connection with nature and fire.  Much of what is served has been cooked, at least in part, in the woodfired ovens outside.  Our table by the open window next to the ovens just added to the evening for me.  The smell of wood fire on a summer’s evening is a joy.

Simplicity runs through this menu.  No choices, other than what to have from the wine list and with Gruner Veltliner as one of the choices I was confident it would be a good evening.  The Moorcock doesn’t mess about. One menu, eight courses, amazing value.

The first to arrive was the bread and cultured butter. Oh my. It’s good. Really really good. So good that we wanted to buy some but other pesky diners got there first and we were out of luck.

Next came a plate of ‘snacks’ and confirmation that this was the kind of place for me. Anyone who can boldly serve woodfired broad beans in their pods with a sprinkling of lovage salt is my kind of chef.  I do have a slightly unhealthy obsession with broad beans and there is nothing more satisfying than opening up the pods and enjoying fresh broad beans at this time of year.  Turns out fire just makes then even better and so my plans for a woodfired oven at home are picking up a pace. Also on the plate sat two perfect slices of cured sea trout with some fresh home made cheese which were a total delight. 

Our next dish was titled courgette, herbs, flowers, currants. When I read this description I was imagining dried fruit (don’t ask me why). What arrived was an explosion of lightly pickled whitecurrant joy nestled amongst fresh yoghurt, herbs and strips of courgette lightly cooked with a hint of the smokiness of the woodfired oven.  Perfect for a summer evening. 

The lightly grilled Lindisfarne oyster with chamomile was paired with a superb bacon and scallop sauce.  I’m not a big fan of oysters (or chamomile) but the texture of them lightly grilled suits me well and the fragrance of the chamomile balanced the sauce with no reminiscence of the tea my mum drinks.

Monkfish with smoked egg yolk and marigold leaves was a confident dish and a highlight of the evening. The rich and creamy smoked egg yolk and a hint of tarragon bringing the dish to life. 

During our first dishes, I was a little surprised to see the head chef emerge from the kitchen and wander over to our table with what looked like a boulder. I wasn’t expecting the delights within. This was no boulder but a whole chicken encased in salt clay that had been slow cooked in the oven.  This is the personality of The Moorcock in a nutshell. Fully immersed in the ingredients, the land, the flavour and wanting to share that journey with everyone who comes.

The dish was worth the wait. The chicken coated in rich chicken liver sauce with little bits of samphire adding seasoning and the gravy, oh my the gravy. Heaven on a plate.

The cooling tea of sorrel and meadowsweet that arrived next was the perfect antidote to all that richness.  

I don’t normally opt for a cheese course, I’m usually trying to avoid being overfed by the end of a meal but the offer of Botton Creamery cheese, Moorland Toome, to be exact, was too hard to resist. This needs no messing about. Some medlar paste and homemade oatcakes allowing the cheese to speak for itself. 

We rounded off the evening with pineapple weed ice cream and gooseberries. Simple again, full of flavour again. You don’t see pineapple weed used much but I love it and it was perfectly placed in a light dessert to round off our meal.

I want places like The Moorcock to thrive. Honest cooking; embracing simplicity and the seasons and bringing joy to those who go on the journey with them.

I’ll certainly be back.

Posted on

My 15 favourite dishes of 2017 (and a little bit more)

2017 has been another wonderful year full of food memories. I have enjoyed every minute of looking through the menus and photos I’ve collected along the way. I admit it was a bit of struggle narrowing it down to my 15 favourite dishes but I’ve done it (with a little bit of bloggers licence along the way)

I was going to say that 2017 started with a bang, but it was more of a sedate start to the year with an indulgent and leisurely lunch in the North Yorkshire countryside at The Black Swan. A highlight dish for me was the halibut with celeriac and celery. The hidden surprises of razor clam and fennel pollen are what made this a particular food memory of 2017. Using bloggers licence though I’d also like to sneak in the ‘snack’ of the chicken dumpling made from brioche filled with confit chicken accompanied by roasted garlic mayonnaise and grated chestnut. I’m actually drooling just typing that. Boy was it good. 

The next highlight dish of the year requires some more blogger’s licence as it was actually a collection of dishes. A mezze in fact, from Honey and Smoke.
The collection of dishes were a taste sensation with the burnt celeriac and cauliflower dishes particularly standing out
A run down of the dishes:
msabaha- chickpeas cooked over night, Turkish pepper and garlic sauce
Winter tomatoes and citrus salad
Burnt celeriac with urfa chilli butter, sour cream and chives
Charred pears with almond tahini and raw honey
Warm goats cheese, red onion, walnut and pomegranate
Falafel and tahini
Cauliflower with homemade amba and tahini

A particular highlight of this year was our evening at Aulis, the development kitchen of Fera at Claridges. A 40th birthday treat for Mr F and an unforgettable evening. I still think about the celeriac, cured yolk and creme fraiche taco we had that evening. The flavour and textures were extraordinary for such a small dish.

As you’ve probably noticed I am a particular fan of Skosh in York. Neil Bentinck, chef patron, can do no wrong in my eyes. I’ve never had a dish that has disappointed so it is often hard to choose what I like most but this year the crisp lamb belly with charred hispi, sumac yoghurt, pickled onion and pomegranate was a highlight.

A little different from the rest is the reindeer carpaccio with parmesan and truffle oil we had at Hotel Ranga in Iceland. We didn’t go to Iceland for the food but the quality of the food and the use of local ingredients at the hotel was a great surprise. The carpaccio was a favourite on the trip.

2017 would not be complete without a dish at another of my favourite places to eat, Le Cochon Aveugle. The baked custard with Sauternes and bitter caramel we had on my birthday was the perfect dessert.

I love seafood. In particular you cannot beat fresh local langoustines. On a visit back home for a family wedding we finally got to The Bull and Ram and having seen Xanthia Clay tweet the day before that she had had langoustines I got rather excited. I was briefly disappointed when they were not on the menu but the wonderful team at Bull and Ram russelled some up for me when I asked. Now that’s service! They were delicious.

Another part of Mr F’s 40th celebrations was a return to L’Enclume. We had not been in five years and I always worry that a return trip to somewhere you have such wonderful memories of can be a mistake but not here. It was incredible and the Herdwick lamb on charcoal and juniper was an absolute stunner.

Gilpin Spice was a fantastic discovery this year. There is nothing else quite like it and it is a great addition to the Lake District. The pork belly dish in particular was sensational and watching it being cooked on the spit roast added to the joy.

We went to the Pig and Whistle not long after it opened and had a great evening. I thrilled to see that it got a mention in the Sunday Times today. The tartiflette au rebouchon was one of my favourites of this year. Melted cheese is always going to feature highlight to be fair but Mr F woke up the next morning and it was the first thing he talked to me about. Memorable.

Sitting on the beach with friends eating the Mackerel wrap from Riley’s Fish Shack was one of my favourite evenings of 2017. The mackerel cooked in the wood oven was delicious and the potatoes, oh my the potatoes were heavenly. I’m planning a repeat in 2018.

We had a fantastic evening at the Chefs of Tomorrow event at Le Cochon Aveugle. It was great to hear from Dan Doherty about how it is championing young chefs and it was great to see an event outside London. The smoked eel ramen dish by Luke Sanderson from Arras was incredible.

I was thrilled that our friend Ben managed to get us all tickets to the Great British Menu evening at the House of Tides. The balance of temperatures and textures in the strawberry and nasturtium dish by Josh Overington was remarkable.

We finally made it to Xu on a recent trip to London. Marina O’Loughlin and Hungry Hoss were not wrong. The Shou Pa chicken is sensational, absolutely sensational.

Our last outing of the year was to Ox Belfast, somewhere I have wanted to go for some time. It was a favourite of the year and in particular a tiny bowl of celeriac, chestnut and thyme will stay with me for a long time. Simple perfection.

So thats my 15 dishes of the year but 2017 could not be without my constants. Life would not be the same without them. It might be a bit predictable but I do plan every year to include them:

A Thai meal at Doi Inthanon in Ambleside. (a tradition started the year Mr F and I met)


Fish and Chips at the Magpie Cafe in Whitby. Heaven.


Sausage rolls from Lucia’s in Ambleside. (they taste even better if you eat them at the top of Easedale Tarn)


Skosh Fried chicken – it should be served in a big bucket. I’d eat a bucketful very happily.


Lobster at Harry’s Shack. It’s the highlight of my summer.


Coffee and breakfast at Babushka preferably sitting outside staring at the sea.


Patisserie from Shutishuti but in particular Eszter’s custard tart. It is THE best.


Crab stotties and a pint at The Ship Inn, Low Newton on Sea.


Haxby Baker bread, in particular Vänskapsbröd, Swedish friendship bread.


A Bacon naan roll from Dishoom.


Hash browns from homeground cafe in Windermere. They should also come in a big bucket.

Wine and charcuterie at Cave du Cochon. It puts a smile on our faces. We love everything about it. 

 

Posted on

Eating Out in August

August was a month of anniversary celebrations, The Great British Menu, holidays and, you guessed it, food… lots of food.

Lord Crewe Arms
Mr F did a grand job of finding this gem of a place for a weekend away. Sitting right in the centre of the historic village of Blanchland, not far from Hexham, the Lord Crewe Arms is steeped in history. Our room was part of the old Abbey, and the original stained glass and window seat provided the perfect place to watch the world go by.
We primarily stayed for some time out and a chance to walk but the Lord Crewe provided a simple menu focusing on local ingredients that were executed well. The fish and the flat iron steak dishes were particularly flavoursome and cooked well. Other dishes didn’t quite hit the mark but overall we enjoyed the food as part of a wonderful place to stay and relax.

Oshibi
This place has been on my list for some time and it didn’t disappoint. You have to be prepared for anything. Even if you have booked a table it doesn’t necessarily mean there is a table for you but it’s the worth the roulette! Oshibi has a feel of eating in someone’s home about it; the sense of welcome suggesting you are friends going round for dinner. The menu says that Korean dining is informal. Yes, yes it is and I loved it. Before we had even decided what to eat we were gifted a soju shot. I’m not sure what it was but the evening brightened up after drinking it. We opted for the Korean table grill. There was a sense of fun in cooking our own strips of meat and enjoying the range of kimchis and dips that went alongside it, these were a real highlight of the meal. The lightly picked garlic was bursting with flavour and the kimchis brought the dish alive.
We also ordered some yachae mandu (vegetable dumplings) which I’d definitely order again. Oshibi is definitely somewhere to go again and again. It’s quirky and chaotic at times but the food holds its own and there is nowhere else quite like it. That is what makes it somewhere special.

A Great British Menu evening at the House of Tides
I have York on a Fork to thank for ensuring we didn’t miss out on this incredible evening. There are not many opportunities to have your evening planned and cooked for you by three outstanding chefs. The different styles and influences of each chef complimented each other throughout the menu beautifully with no sense of competition. A series of snacks were a fitting start to an evening that felt celebratory. The pork and smoked eel bonbon was an absolute triumph and the carrot and fennel pollen macaron so delicate yet full of flavour. Following the snacks we got into the main dishes from each chef starting with Josh Overington’s strawberry and nasturtium dish. This one messed with my head, the balance of flavours and temperatures making you really think about what you were eating and the granola adding a wonderful texture. It was a stunning dish and one of my favourites of the night. Next up was Danny Parker’s salad twenty two. The complex flavours were balanced so beautifully and I found myself wanted to pay attention to every mouthful and really appreciate each distinct ingredient. Next we had the fish course that got Tommy Banks to the GBM banquet: Turbot, strawberries and cream. At the time I watched this on TV I remember thinking Tommy had gone quite quite mad but oh my was I proved wrong. It was a stunning dish. Even more pleasing for me was that the strawberries come from my local farm shop. This was another of my favourites of the night. The colour, flavours and textures were a marriage made in heaven. Next up was the Gloucester old spot, pineapple and onion by Danny Parker. I love pineapple and it was a real hit in this dish. We then moved on to desserts and the first by Josh Overington completed my top three of the evening. A wild herb pannacotta with the wonderful flavour and fragrance of woodruff making it an absolute delight to eat. Last but not least was Tommy Banks hay time dessert that was an adaptation from the original to include a little ice cream slider. I enjoyed the dish but it didn’t have the same strength of flavour to sit alongside the rest of the menu. We finished the evening off with some stunning chocolates and coffee before heading back on the train. The skill and passion for food that these chefs brought to the table will last long in my memory, what a spectacular evening.

A trip home to Northern Ireland:

Ocho Tapas
I’ve heard a lot about Ocho Tapas and we finally got the chance to book a table. Our timing wasn’t brilliant as half the world was in Portrush for a band championship but we successfully parked the car and recovered with a glass of wine while perusing the menu. This isn’t a typical tapas place, the dishes are tapas in style in that they are a series of small plates but this is ‘small’ Northern Irish style so expect to eat rather a lot! The highlights were lamb with cauliflower and the goats cheese croquettes with beetroot pannacotta. Both very different, the lamb dish rustic, robust and packing a punch, the goats cheese and beetroot refined, delicate and light. In many ways these sum up Ocho Tapas. It’s eclectic but there are little delights along the way and I’d recommend you go visit.

Harry’s Shack
I cannot go home without a visit to Harry’s Shack. It is completely my kind of place with a focus on local fish and seafood cooked to perfection. August visits always mean lobster. I mean, why wouldn’t you….

Ursa Minor Bakehouse
A trip home also also means bread and cakes at Ursa Minor and this time we got to visit their new, bigger, Bakehouse and cafe in Ballycastle. It is a fantastic place to spend a morning. The new cafe is beautifully designed and the ability to go downstairs and see the Bakehouse just adds to the enjoyment.

Pizza nights at Lost and Found
The new Friday night opening at L&F provided the perfect excuse to catch up with friends and enjoy great food. The pizza menu is small but perfectly formed. Be warned though it gets very busy so make sure you get there early!

Babushka
You’ve probably worked out already that we spend a LOT of time here. The coffee is perfect, the food a joy to eat, the people a joy to know and the view: nowhere else on earth like it. That’s all I need to say.

Harry’s Derry
A first visit to the new restaurant in the Craft Village. Full review here: https://www.frivolitea.co.uk/2017/09/01/harrys-craft-village-derry/

Posted on

Eating out in July

July was another great month of eating with friends, inspiring young chefs and a weekend by the sea.

Riley’s Fish Shack

There is nothing better than local fish and seafood cooked simply and you can’t get any better than Riley’s Fish Shack.  A wooden shack nestled in St Edward’s Bay in Tynemouth using a wood fired oven to do most of the cooking – it’s perfect.  The food is sensational and tasting the sea air as you eat it is a little slice of heaven.  Be prepared to queue. Trust me it is worth the wait and you might want to get an extra portion of the potatoes, one portion isn’t enough.

The Chefs of Tomorrow Project at Le Cochon Aveugle

We are great fans of Dan Doherty and have been following this project for a while. We were delighted that the project decided to move out of London and come to York, allowing young chefs in our area to showcase their talent.  This was an evening I won’t forget in a hurry and makes me very excited about the future of food in our region.  The young chefs from Arras, Home, The Black Swan at Oldstead and Le Cochon Aveugle showed such skill and talent in a rather daunting setting. The starter of eel ramen created by Luke from Arras was up there with the best.

Lunch at Skosh

Yes I know, we went again but the food is incredible and exceptionally good value.  The pineapple, rum and smoke cocktail was mind blowing and I partularly loved the new smoked trout dish.

 

York on a Fork’s first Streetfood Sunday

Streetfood Sunday at the Fulford Arms is the brilliant idea of York on a Fork.  A selection of streetfood (this month by Street Cleaver and Ruby’s Kitchen) great beer and sitting in the sun with friends; there is no better way to spend a Sunday afternoon.  Follow York on a Fork on Twitter or Facebook to find out about dates and go along if you can.

A weekend in Scarborough

I will find any excuse to escape to the sea.  I love the summer months when we can escape in the van and enjoy local food.  This is the first time we tried The Plough at Scalby and we were impressed.  The local lobster was a big hit and they had a great selection of local beers and gins.  We will definitely go back.

No trip to Scarborough is complete with a trip to Cowshed. A particular favourite of ours and the sweet potato fries are amazing.  Make sure you book as it gets really busy.

A weekend in Edinburgh: Norn

I was rather excited to book Norn.  It’s been on the list ever since I read Marina O’Louglin’s review in the Guardian.  This place is incredible. It uses lots of techniques to preserve native ingredients and takes even the humble carrot and makes it the most flavoursome thing you’ve ever eaten. The natural wines list is also rather spectacular.  I loved the blurred lines between the kitchen and front of house as chefs brought out the dishes to the table and I would fight people for that bread and butter. Oh my it’s delicious.

If you are looking for somewhere relaxed to enjoy wine, charcuterie and cheese in Edinburgh then look no further than Smith and  Gertrude.  I love this place and go every time I’m in Edinburgh. The staff are great, the ever changing wine selection always has something exciting on it and the food just right to while away a few hours on an evening.

Posted on

Eating Out in June

As June started we were still in the Lakes, it was another exciting month of food, kickstarters and learning about food.

Gilpin Spice

This place is just wonderful.  The decor and the food is vibrant and exciting.  The joy of small plates also means you can try lots of things and a seat (well more a sofa) at the bar meant we saw everything. The pork belly – sublime!

A Kickstarter Lunch at Norse

It was great to see Norse in its new home and enjoy the lunch we’d bought as part of the Kickstarter.  Norse feels much more grown up in its own venue. The decor is beautiful and the food refined.

 

A lesson in Italian cookery with Sara Danesin and a BBQ afternoon at Cave du Cochon

I love my husband’s family. They organised for me to have a lesson in Italian cookery with Sara and what an afternoon it was.  I was so grateful to Sara who planned a menu for me to work on that also focussed on some core skills and flavours.  It’s a lesson I’ll never forget.

After the lesson I had a great afternoon in the sun with friends. Those of you who follow me on Instagram will know that Cave du Cochon is a favourite place of mine.  Mr F and I enjoy nothing more than an evening with a glass of wine or two sat at the bar.  It was great to enjoy a sunny afternoon with friends and Josh Overington cooking chicken on the BBQ.

The Pig and Whistle

I’d been following the lead up to the Pig and Whistle’s opening on twitter with great anticipation and was eager to see what James Allcock would bring to Beverley.  We were not disappointed! The menu is a great mix of charcuterie, cheeses and small plates.  I was particularly pleased to see Young Buck cheese on the menu ( I’m fiercely loyal to my homeland and home town and I LOVE cheese as you know) Mr F woke up the next morning and his first words to me were ‘ that tartfilette was amazing!’

Blanchette Brick Lane

A work trip to London allowed for a visit to the newer branch of Blanchette on Brick Lane.  Just as fantastic as their Soho restaurant. Wonderfully flavoured small plates that bring a smile to my face.

 

Posted on

Eating out in May

So it turns out May was a pretty spectacular food month!

The Man Behind The Curtain

I have to admit I wasn’t sure what to expect or whether Michael O’Hare’s food would be my thing but I could not fault the creative flare or skill that went in to this meal. It was extraordinary and well worth a visit.

 

A return to Northern Ireland: Brunch at Haptik

Newtownards is definitely a much more interesting place now that Haptik is in town.  Rachel and Jonathan McBride have created a fantastic place for enjoying coffee and simple but high quality brunches and lunches.  Just look at those Baghdad eggs!

Lunch at Bull and Ram

What a place! Opened in an old butchers shop in the centre of Ballynahinch is one of the best places I’ve been in Northern Ireland for food.  Serving Meat Merchant ( JIm and Peter Hannan) Himalayan salt chamber aged beef amongst other local produce to the highest quality.  The day before we went Xanthe Clay had visited and had the finest looking langoustines I’ve ever seen (the power of twitter intelligence!) when I looked on the menu they weren’t there. I was devastated, but I asked and 5 minutes later I have my very own langoustines starter. Now that’s what I call service!! Perfectly cooked steak for main, bread and Abernethy butter on the side and the most wonderful pannacotta for pudding. Made my year!

Sara Danesin’s supper club

Mr F’s family love any excuse to go to Sara’s supper club.  I’ll never complain about that as it is always a fantastic evening of the most wonderful Italian food and great company.  Sara’s passion for food shines through in everything on the plate.

A trip to the lakes: many visits to Homeground Cafe

This place ticks all of the boxes. Great cofffee, great cake, great food and the best hash browns ever known to exist.

A 19 course lunch at L’enclume

Mr F and I love Simon Rogan’s food and we were lost for words on this visit. The food is absolutely sensational. It just gets better and better. The Herdwick lamb over charcoal was a particularly stunning dish.

 

Posted on

Eating out in April

I’ve had a bit of a hiatus from blog writing over the last few months but that doesn’t mean I have stopped enjoying food and eating out, far from it. I thought in preparation for getting back into writing I’d create a month by month summary of where I’ve been.  Turns out April this year was busy!

An Italian Night at Mannions in York

Mannions is one of my favourite places to go for lunch in York. Great ingredients and great flavours in a relaxed setting.   (they also have a rather fabulous spanish sauvignon blanc on their wine list, you can thank me later) They occasionally do themed nights and it is definitely worth booking in.  The salt cod and mutton ragu dishes were particular favourites of mine.  Everything was executed beautifully and there was a fantastic buzz throughout the evening.

Our Annual Pilgrimage to Northumberland

I love the sea and find every opportunity I can to be near it.  A highlight of our year is our stay up near Craster.  Every visit includes a walk to the The Ship Inn at Low Newton by the Sea for a crab stottie and a pint.  In a departure from tradition Mr F had lamb koftas and crushed new potatoes which was also really tasty.

After a successful visit to the Old Boat House in Amble last year we visited their new addition to the harbour side, The Fish Shack.  We were not disappointed.  A quirky set up with the focus on simple, superbly cooked fish and seafood and a rather stunning chocolate cake with caramel sauce for pudding.

Birthday Dinner at Le Cochon Aveugle

Josh Overington’s food just gets better and better.  I always leave Le Cochon feeling challenged and excited by the combinations of food I have just experienced.  The black pudding macaron was out of this world!

Birthday Dinner at Skosh

Yeah I know, two birthday dinners in one week, but why not when we are spoilt in York with fantastic independent restaurants.  Skosh is my favourite place to eat; It never ever disappoints.  The combination of ingredients and spices used work perfectly and always leave me wanting more.

Fish Night at The Bridge Bistro Sandsend

My favourite thing to eat is fish and seafood, so the discovery that the Bridge Bistro did a Friday night fish and seafood tasting menu was rather exciting.  It’s a tiny place with big ambition, I’d highly reccomend trying it out.

Posted on

Harry’s Craft Village, Derry

I’ve had somewhat of a hiatus from blog writing over the last few months. I’ve not however stopped eating food and enjoying trying new places. In fact it’s a visit to Harry’s in Derry that has cured my writers block.

I’ve always loved Harry’s Shack in Portstewart. It’s the first place we book for any visit back to the Causeway Coast (if you haven’t been, book a flight, hire a car, drive up the coast road, eat local fish and seafood at Harry’s Shack and you’ll never want to leave)

Anyway, a day trip to Derry on the train, the most magical train journey by the way, gave us opportunity to book lunch at Harry’s. Harry’s feels like the ‘grown up’ sibling of Harry’s Shack. There is a familiarity about the style of food but a delicate touch and refinement that sets it apart from Harry’s Shack. That is no disrespect to Harry’s Shack, their food is sensational and fits the surroundings, but at Harry’s in the Craft Village they are definitely showcasing their craft by focusing on seasonal ingredients grown in their kitchen garden alongside the bounty of local seafood the Causeway Coast is gifted with.

My starter of warm garden pea, broad bean, leek and summer truffle tart with soft duck egg and chervil was stunning. The vivid green when it arrives does not prepare you for the delights hidden within.  Cutting through the most delicate of filo pastry uncovered a beautifully soft set duck egg adding richness to the dish, alongside what has to be one of the finest tastes of summer in fresh peas and broad beans; finishing with the luxury of summer truffle leads to the most satisfying of dishes and a great start to our meal.

Mr F had the breaded mackerel fish cakes, pickled garden beetroot, dulse and horseradish curd. The beetroot, lightly pickled and bursting with flavour was the perfect accompaniment for the rich mackerel.  The background flavour of local dulse providing the perfect seasoning for the dish and a wonderful reminder of the sea.  A few robust ingredients that had the risk of battling against each other given a deftness of touch allowed each component to shine.

For main I had Greencastle hake, ham hock, peas, gem lettuce, horseradish and mint curd, whey reduction and new potatoes. It sounds complicated but had an elegance that summed up summer for me.  Perfectly cooked hake sat atop braised gem lettuce, peas and mint providing colour and freshness;  saltiness from the ham hock and a  horseradish and mint curd that packed a punch without overpowering the rest of the dish.

In a departure for Mr F he chose the roast chicken breast, pancetta, girolle, charred leeks, macaroni gratin, hazelnut and truffle pesto. A particular highlight of the dish were the charred leeks, suitably black but without a burnt flavour. There was a lovely depth and sweetness to the dish provided by the girolles and pancetta. The macaroni gratin, light and cheesy was a great accompaniment.

After a breather we decided to go the whole hog and get a dessert too. To be honest as soon as I saw there was woodruff on the menu I couldn’t refuse; Sweet woodruff pannacotta, strawberry, passion fruit and coconut is my kind of dish. The earthy flavour of woodruff complimented by a lovely passion fruit granita, coconut foam and strawberries gave just the right amount of sweetness. Plenty to grab your attention but light enough to enjoy at the end of a meal.

Mr F enjoyed the tarte tatin, raspberry, pumpkin seed and vanilla ice cream. Beautifully caramelised plum tatin sat on velvety creme anglaise and fresh raspberries. The unusual addition of pumpkin seed really worked, adding a crunch and nutty flavour.

At Harry’s there is a simple beauty to the dishes. What we experienced was expert cooking, everything we had was perfectly balanced allowing seasonal ingredients to shine. This is somewhere I would love to return to.  There is a confidence and simplicity to the food here that should be celebrated and enjoyed.

Posted on

Honey and Smoke

Itamar and Sarit can do no wrong can they? Not in my opinion. Honey and Smoke has everything you want from Honey and Co but  with its own twsit of a focus on the grill and the most stunning blue wall.

 

Honey and Smoke is a great place to go with friends. The set menu allows the table to share the full mezze before choosing a grill and side then dessert. It’s great value and allows you to try a wide selection of dishes.  We started the evening with drinks. Pomegranate Bellini to be precise, well you have to really don’t you?

And the the mezze arrived. Wow! The finest looking range of dishes I have seen in a long time. What I particularly love about Itamar and Sarit’s cooking is the attention they give to every element, particularly every single vegetable. The burnt celeriac with urfa chilli butter, sour cream and chives was a particular favourite of the table. I love celeriac but the flavour in this dish was off the chart. It’s a work of magic. It must be.

The other mezze dishes were:

msabaha: chickpeas cooked over night, Turkish pepper and garlic sauce
Winter tomatoes and citrus salad
Charred pears with almond tahini and raw honey
Warm goats cheese, red onion, walnut and pomegranate
Falafel and tahini
Cauliflower with homemade amba and tahini
Moroccan sourdough
Baba ganoush

I’m not always a fan of fruit in savoury dishes but here they get it right every time. The amba (mango pickle) accompanying the cauliflower was sublime. Everything was perfectly balanced.  The baba ganoush was the the most flavoursome I’ve ever tried. The Moroccan sourdough was delicious.

Following our mezze we moved on to our grill choices.
We had Cornish hake kofta with lemon and herbs, matbucha sauce

And Hamama – pigeon with sweet onion, pine nuts and sultanas as they do in ‘Philadelphia’ restaurant East Jerusalem.

The hake kofta was bursting with flavour. The matbucha sauce of tomato, garlic and peppers was a great accompaniment. The pigeon although it looked simple on the plate came alive with the spicing and flavours of the onion, pine nuts and sultanas.

We choose sides of Sweet potato in embers, almonds, date honey and spring onions and M’jadra, lentil rice with cumin and caramelised onions.

These worked really well with our choices from the grill and I’m going to have to buy some date honey otherwise my sweet potato will always feel like it’s lacking from now on.

It was surprising really that we had room for dessert but I knew that Mr F would refuse to leave until cheesecake was consumed. Given that it is the same as the one at Honey and Co I need not tell you it was perfect as ever.

I chose warm chestnut cake with salted caramel and sour cream. This was a great choice for the end of the meal. The cake was beautifully light and the sour cream cut through the rich salted caramel sauce (which I had to resist just drinking from the jug)

I loved Honey and Smoke, I think venue wise the intimacy of Honey and Co has the edge but the food: stunning as ever.

Posted on

Aulis at Fera, Claridges

Have you ever exclaimed ‘How on earth do they do that’ whilst eating stunning food in a restaurant? Yep me too. Often when we eat out at places where chefs are at the top of their game I spend the evening not only enjoying every morsel of food but racking my brains trying to work out how it was achieved. I love the mystery and intrigue of well crafted food.

For Mr F’s birthday I decided to plan a special surprise. Mr F loves Simon Rogan’s philosophy of food and we still talk about the meal we had at Fera in 2014! Rather than book the same again I planned a special treat and booked in to Aulis, the development kitchen of Fera. This time not only would we eat skilfully crafted food but we would see it being cooked right in front of us.

We arrived and enjoyed a glass of Davenport at the bar. I mean why wouldn’t you? It’s a special occasion after all. I’d forgotten how stunning the dining room of Claridges is. The Art Deco design mixed with Simon Rogan’s ‘natural’ look is a sight to behold.

Once the other 4 guests arrived ( Aulis can only seat 6 people) we were guided through the working kitchen to the Aulis test kitchen. Just wasking through a bustling kitchen was excitement for me. I wanted to break free from the group and explore!

Our chefs for the evening explained how Aulis is used as a development kitchen and then got to work preparing the first of our dishes. The evening was  typical of Rogan’s style  with snacks, starters, fish, meat and desserts coming together to create a diverse tasting menu. It was fascinating watching the chefs at work, being able to ask questions about the ingredients and processes as well as having conversations with the chefs and other dining guests about the restaurant, food and life in general. We were completely immersed in a food bubble and fascinated by the range of kitchen technology on show.

The dishes:
Our first snack was buckwheat tart, mylar, almond, blackcurrant. I’ve never had mylar prawns before and they were wonderfully sweet alongside the sharpness of the blackcurrant.

Our second snack of Seaweed wafer, bergamot, smoked eel was a particular favourite of mine with the smoked eel really celebrated in the dish.

Next we had Goats cheese, Jerusalem artichoke, stout in a ceramic egg. I’m a huge fan of Jerusalem artichoke and this dish was bursting with flavour. The twice dehydrated artichoke crumb that topped the egg added a lovely texture to the dish.

The next dish was really creatively presented with raw scallop, barley koji, buttermilk on a ceramic dish with a red chicory and roe dish hidden underneath. It was fascinating to chat to the chef about the process of making the barley Koji and how this was used to marinade the Isle of Mull scallops.

The celeriac, cured yolk, creme fraiche taco style dish was one of my favourites of the evening. Surprising as it was one of the simpler dishes but the flavour and different textures of celeriac were delicious and the grated cured egg yolk added another dimension.

The Portland crab, oyster, carrots, black garlic, burnt chives was fascinating to watch being put together. The crab was delicious and the carrot juice consommé, made from barbecued carrots was a revelation.

The torched deer, semi dried beetroot, lovage dish was Mr F’s favourite of the evening. The saddle of roe deer was blowtorched to ensure it was still rare in the middle.

The mushroom, whey sauce, calcot onion, truffle was a fascinating dish. The Calcott onions were barbecued on the big green egg and the savoury mushroom custard was sublime. The addition of a little winter truffle really brought this dish to life.

For the monkfish, brown butter, baby leeks, coastal herbs dish the monkfish was cooked on the bone and the butter had some marmite added. The parsnip purée was the smoothest and silkiest purée I’ve had and added a lovely richness to the dish.

The lamb saddle, chervil root, quinoa, cocoa nibs used Cornish lamb and was served with a chervil root purée that had three types of quinoa running through it giving a lovely crunch to the dish. The 100% chocolate in the sauce gave a lovely richness and the barbecued white kale finished the dish beautifully.

For the last three dishes we moved to desserts.
The first of forced rhubarb, honeycomb, sheep’s yoghurt, rose looked fascinating. The large piece of what looked like white chocolate was actually aerated frozen sheep’s yoghurt and much lighter than expected and it was great to see Yorkshire forced rhubarb on the menu.

The chocolate, sweet clover, Jerusalem artichoke, earl grey dish was the biggest surprise of the evening and the flavour of the Jerusalem artichoke worked beautifully.

Our final dish of Goldrush (Apple), caramel, hazelnut was accompanied by coffee prepared and served by a coffee sommelier in front of us. Served without milk it was interesting to taste the fruit notes in the coffee accompanying the apple ‘snack’

Being so immersed in the preparation, the ingredients and plating of the food really made us appreciate the skill and creativity of the Fera, even more that we had appreciated already. This was a unique experience, not one you would be able to do often, but definitely worth every penny. The memories of the evening will certainly last a long time.

(By the way if you go, make sure you visit the toilets. A thing of beauty. It’s not often I say that in a food blog but well, its good advice on this occasion.)