Clam and Cork

If you suggested to me that my love of food would take me on a culinary adventure by way of a train to Doncaster and a walk to Doncaster markets I would have thought you had gone mad. BUT there I was, at Doncaster Fish Market having the time of my life. Turns out Jay Rayner knows what he is talking about 😉 Clam and Cork is everything I hoped it would be. Full on northern charm and hospitality that extends from staff to the plates of food. It sits on the edge of the market, allowing the sunshine to tease you, right next to the fish stalls. I’m a fan of food traceability and you can literally see where your fish has come from in this place. 

Clam and Cork offers a short but hugely inviting menu, I was on the edge of saying ‘all of it please’ when we were asked for our order. We went for a main of monkfish burger with chips and two small plates – calamari with chipotle mayo and roasted peppers, and pan seared scallops with lime, coriander and anchovy dressing. It was exceptional. No faff, no ponce, just damn good seafood treated with love and care. The scallops were cooked to perfection and the dressing perfectly balanced. The coating on the calamari and the monkfish in the burger had a delightful kick, beautifully accompanied by the chipotle mayo. The chips were just how my mum makes them.  The finest kind of chip. All if which was garnished with pea shoots. The queen of garnish. I can’t think of a better way to spend a lunchtime. We chatted away to the fishmonger from the next door stall and the chef about our love of food (and our love of Doncaster Sheffield airport) as we ate our lunch and, as if the afternoon wasn’t already going swimmingly, our visit coincided with the slow cooked pork coming out of the oven so we got a sample of the most stunning pork flavoured with star anise, ginger and chilli. Anyone visiting tomorrow is in for a treat!

I can imagine we will visit this place often! I mean, it’s only a 20-minute train journey from York and less than five minute walk from the station.  Why wouldn’t you?

Aizle, Edinburgh

Wow. To be honest I could stop the review there. Aizle was wow, from beginning to end and it’s been a while since I have had a meal that blew my socks off. Not one dish disappointed. Each was creative and interesting and left me asking ‘so how did they do that’.  I had high hopes when we first entered the restaurant and I spied chopsticks.  I love eating with chopsticks and I really wasn’t expecting that of a neighbourhood restaurant that serves a tasting menu.  

A few things really stood out about Aizle.  Firstly the joy of a blackboard of ingredients and no menu.  It might frustrate some but I really enjoyed playing a game of guess which ingredients are in this dish and what’s still to come.  Secondly the nods to Asian, particularly Japanese, flavours and ingredients through the menu.  This wasn’t fusion cooking but it was wonderfully played dishes using seasonal ingredients alongside Asian influences to create a brilliantly balanced and interesting menu.  I loved everything, the relaxed atmosphere, the down to earth service, the mix of dishes coming from the kitchen and the little prep room near our table. 

Dinner started with three snacks, a cheddar cornetto, using a hard cows cheese from Aberdeenshire with mounreyac pear, the most incredible duck dumpling with a five year aged soy dipping sauce and finally a mushroom flavoured Japanese savoury custard (Chawanmushi) with Jerusalem artichoke and Parmesan.  All were delicious teasers of what else would come over the evening.  The dumpling in particular was a favourite of mine, rich duck flavour and silky smooth dumpling, I’d very happily have eaten a bowl of them.

Following the snacks came the first dish, a tartare of beetroot with venison charcuterie cleverly mixed in with the beetroot and topped off with crispy noodle and yuzukosho, a fermented chilli mayonnaise.  The dish looked simple but every mouthful introduced a new flavour.

Next came our bread course, but this was no ordinary bread! This was a sourdough brioche bun filled with confit chicken and topped with truffle and an onion mayonnaise . Wow, wow, wow.

On to dish three and it was time for fish.  Cod, celeriac and grapes.  Classic cooking at first glance but again a twist with the cod being cooked in dashi butter and the sauce smoked over mussel shells.  Simple, elegant, delicious. 

Dish four moved us into the main event and the meat dish.  We revisited duck, this time Goosnargh duck crusted in buckwheat served with heirloom heritage carrots all brought alive with the edition of Japanese sansho berries.  Yet again expert cooking making it a joy to eat. 

We don’t often opt for the cheese course in a tasting menu but we were having such a good run we thought what the heck and had Vacherin Mont D’or with focaccia and the most wonderful little quince salad. 

And so we were on to our last two dishes, the desserts.  First up was a wonderfully light Granny Smith Apple with white chocolate and wasabi and then to finish it was yorkshire rhubarb with hibiscus and Scottish oats.  Both desserts were wonderfully balanced with hints of savoury as well as sweet and the perfect way to round of a wonderful meal. 

For our finale we had coffee and petit fours. Often something that disappoints me in restaurants is coffee not being given the same attention as the rest of the meal.  Many times I’ve groaned when I’ve read the word nespresso, but not here.  When the waitress uttered the words ‘our coffee is from steampunk coffee’ I nearly let out a squeal of joy.  This is a place that cares even about the coffee at the end.  An utter joy! And a cracking cup of coffee with my muscadet pumpkin and maple petit four. 

We left three hours after we arrived with a spring in our step at a fabulous evening and knowing we would be visiting again!

The Little Chartroom

They say all good things come in little packages and they, whoever they are, would be right because what The Little Chartroom lacks in size it certainly makes up for in personality and culinary flare.   We ventured to the Little Chartroom for brunch on our last morning in Edinburgh and it certainly gave us a fantastic farewell to this beautiful city.  Situated on Leith Walk, with its mix of faded grandeur, quirky shops and hints of regeneration, this elegant and bijou restaurant has only room for 15 covers and like everything else it has a small but perfectly formed brunch menu. 

I’ve never been so excited by a brunch menu before.  This is a place that has a creative confidence in what it offers.  I struggled to choose as I wanted to try everything but opted for braised beef shin, smoked celeriac remoulade, potato scones and fried egg. It was an absolute stunner. Rich and delicious.  The smoked celeriac remoulade a stroke of genius and bringing the whole dish together.  Mr F had mushrooms, garlic, bacon jam and poached eggs on sourdough toast.  The sourdough coming from twelve triangles bakery just around the corner.  Another winning dish. 

We finished off our brunch with doughnuts.  I mean its impossible to refuse a homemade doughnut on a brunch menu, right?  Made and filled with wonderfully zingy rhubarb jam right in front of us. 

The Little Chartroom may be small but it is bold, confident in its style and food.  It’s my kind of place and I am most definitely planning a return visit for dinner. 

Noble Holywood

I just happen to be sitting opposite Jay Rayner at Monmouth coffee company’s Borough Market cafe. Not long ago I spent a day with him in London learning more about the craft of writing (with several other people I hasten to add) his simple presence this morning reminded me that I’ve not written in a while and I should,  in fact the place I want to write about is a place he visited in Northern Ireland a while ago and was on my list for some time. Now living part time in Northern Ireland makes getting through my list of places I want to eat a bit easier. And so I finally make it to Noble; it was worth the wait. 

Noble seems a rather unassuming little place on Church Street, Holywood but walk through the door and up the stairs and you need to be prepared for anything but.  Noble might be a physically small space but it is big and bold and beautiful in its offering.   Noble is a place that believes in itself and its ingredients; no flashy touches, no foams or faff just delightfully perfect cooking.

You can go for the lunch / early doors menu, or at least you can plan to, but rest assured you will look at the specials and the fuller menu and be swayed. 

We started our afternoon off with a glass of wine (our Austrian waiter was delighted with the choice of Grüner Veltliner) and some padron peppers before settling on starters of Parmesan arancini with an addition of truffle and Portavogie prawns with garlic butter and lemon. Classic dishes beautifully executed.

For mains Mr F chose the suckling pig and I surprised myself by going vegetarian but boy am I glad I did.  The roast cauliflower, spiced couscous and onion Bhaji dish was exceptional. The flavours were perfectly balanced and it was an absolute joy to eat. We finished the meal off with a pear and bramble tart and a Parkin and burnt apple dish and the only comment would be that it was more a cake than Parkin.  It didn’t have the chewy texture Parkin should have. The danger of a Yorkshire man ordering Parkin outside of Yorkshire!

There is always a risk when you’ve been looking forward to visiting somewhere for sometime, and twitter friends have frequently said it’s excellent, that it will not live up to expectation. Well Noble did and more.  We will certainly visit again and be telling others about it.

The Hideaway Kitchen

I guess the clue is in the name of the place but ‘Hideaway Kitchen’ really is tucked away in North Yorkshire’s in rolling countryside. Only a short trip by car from York or Harrogate down a single lane road and you find yourself in the most beautiful village of Lower Dunsforth where Georgina and Amelia are working their magic. 

This is no village pub or cafe or restaurant it’s a wonderful mix of all three and more. Over the last few months it has been transformed in to a light and bright all day eatery with Mediterranean influences running through the menu. I was invited by The Harrogate Girl (@THarrogateGirl) to join a group of bloggers for the evening and I am very glad I took up the invite as this place is a hidden gem. Our menu, featuring a range of dishes from the regular evening offering, was fresh and light, making the most of summer produce.

We kicked off with a range of sharing plates including jamon, a sheeps milk cheese that was beautifully salty and rich, crackling strips that had a wonderfully loud crunch, houmous spiced with dukkah and then, the highlight for me, pickled cockle popcorn that popped with flavour.

Next arrived a perfect summer evening dish of crab, pea shoot and nasturtium salad that was expertly seasoned with mojama, a dried and salt cured tuna. Another example of the spanish influences in the cooking here.

The cashew chicken with mango, chilli and Thai basil salsa and a satay dipping sauce was full of colour and summer flavours

The tuna carpaccio brought us back to mediterranean influences with a seasoning of parmesan and spanish olive oil. Simple and delicious.

Then lamb rump with harissa sweet potato, pea and mint salad and chimichurri dressing was definitely a spice hit. 

The evening was rounded off with a fresh and light dessert of strawberry parfait with pistachios and basil.

The Hideaway Kitchen call themselves ‘your home away from home’ and the description is spot on. Part way through the evening, a couple walked through with a pint and a slice of cake confirming to me this is my kind of place. A relaxed and varied offering appealing to a great range of people. It offers something a little different; an opportunity to go for as little or as much food as you want in a relaxed countryside setting but with flavours and influences that stems from a partnership of culinary and travel expertise. I would certainly recommend it and will be returning for more.

Note: I attended Hideaway Kitchen as part of a bloggers event and no charge was made for the evening.

Wreckfish

There is something rather exciting about the group of restaurants that make up ‘Elite Bistro’s of the World’. Gary Usher has this wonderful way of inviting you into the family, warts and all and taking you on an emotional roller coaster.  You desperately want him and the restaurant dreams to succeed. And so, nearly a year after our little investment in that dream, we arrived at Wreckfish, voucher in hand.

I have to admit on the train over there was lot of excitement and a bit of trepidation. It had been a great adventure from afar and I wanted reality to live up to expectation. I also made the mistake of looking at the sample menu online. I know the rules. You can’t and shouldn’t expect a sample menu to fully reflect what you might be offered on a given day BUT I spotted the cauliflower risotto on the menu. I have a slight obsession with cauliflower and I wanted it. To my huge relief it was there.

Lunch at Wreckfish is amazing value and the menu perfectly crafted meaning that choosing one starter and one main is hard. You’ve no doubt established by now that for starter I chose the cauliflower risotto and it did not let me down.  The vadouvan spice perfectly balanced bringing the whole thing to life. It was good. Really really good. Mr F went for the ox tongue salad with artichoke and beef croquette. It was beautiful, delicate and a great choice for a summers day.

And so, on to our mains. Oh my, the mains. I had whole plaice perfectly cooked with butter and salty capers and Mr Fs feather blade of beef… well just look at it. Melt in the mouth, rich, beefiness accompanied by silky smooth caramelised cauliflower purée and a side order of gloriously crisp and fluffy parmesan and truffle chips. Mr F didn’t speak for a whole five minutes as he was so immersed in his food! He reluctantly let me try a little and boy did it taste good.

For dessert I had mango sorbet, passion fruit mousse, caramelised white chocolate and pineapple. A brilliantly light and tangy to finish my meal.  Mr F had the strawberry semifreddo, marinated strawberries and fresh honeycomb. Simple and delicious.  We were now officially stuffed full and very happy indeed.

I can’t praise Wreckfish enough.  It was everything I hoped it would be and more.  The food was fantastic value and of the highest quality, the staff clearly proud of what they’ve achieved.  It makes you want to visit again and again. We’ve already talked about a return visit and I can’t wait to see what Gary Usher does next.  

A day out in Halifax: The Chow Down and The Moorcock Inn

I’m embarrassed to say I have never been to Halifax so we decided on a day of exploring before heading to the Moorcock Inn later on.  Turns out that was a great idea as the Chow Down was on all weekend at The Piece Hall.   If you get the chance go.  Make a day of it, explore the impressively refurbished Piece Hall with its multitude of independent shops, go to the industrial museum and watch quality street being made and lap up the atmosphere at the Chow Down whilst eating a Lebanese chicken kebab, bao buns, deep fried doughnutty goodness and drinking Magic Rock High Wire in the sun.

Then off we went to The Moorcock.  There is always a risk in going somewhere that a few people have recommended to you.  You build up a picture in your mind that can lead to utter disappointment if it doesn’t match up.  However, when both Marina O’Loughlin and Josh Overington tell you about somewhere it is generally wise to listen.  I must admit when we arrived and looked at the slightly tired exterior of this isolated pub, high on the moor, I began to doubt we’d made the right decision.  Though we all know you should never judge a book by its cover and as we walked through the door I’m glad I didn’t.

When it comes to dining out, some might argue against understatement, preferring sophistication and style. I, however love simplicity; ingredients being given room to breathe and tell their story.  For me that’s what sophistication is.  The confidence to keep it simple and not relying on irritating foams or swirls. 

Part of the story of The Moorcock is the connection with nature and fire.  Much of what is served has been cooked, at least in part, in the woodfired ovens outside.  Our table by the open window next to the ovens just added to the evening for me.  The smell of wood fire on a summer’s evening is a joy.

Simplicity runs through this menu.  No choices, other than what to have from the wine list and with Gruner Veltliner as one of the choices I was confident it would be a good evening.  The Moorcock doesn’t mess about. One menu, eight courses, amazing value.

The first to arrive was the bread and cultured butter. Oh my. It’s good. Really really good. So good that we wanted to buy some but other pesky diners got there first and we were out of luck.

Next came a plate of ‘snacks’ and confirmation that this was the kind of place for me. Anyone who can boldly serve woodfired broad beans in their pods with a sprinkling of lovage salt is my kind of chef.  I do have a slightly unhealthy obsession with broad beans and there is nothing more satisfying than opening up the pods and enjoying fresh broad beans at this time of year.  Turns out fire just makes then even better and so my plans for a woodfired oven at home are picking up a pace. Also on the plate sat two perfect slices of cured sea trout with some fresh home made cheese which were a total delight. 

Our next dish was titled courgette, herbs, flowers, currants. When I read this description I was imagining dried fruit (don’t ask me why). What arrived was an explosion of lightly pickled whitecurrant joy nestled amongst fresh yoghurt, herbs and strips of courgette lightly cooked with a hint of the smokiness of the woodfired oven.  Perfect for a summer evening. 

The lightly grilled Lindisfarne oyster with chamomile was paired with a superb bacon and scallop sauce.  I’m not a big fan of oysters (or chamomile) but the texture of them lightly grilled suits me well and the fragrance of the chamomile balanced the sauce with no reminiscence of the tea my mum drinks.

Monkfish with smoked egg yolk and marigold leaves was a confident dish and a highlight of the evening. The rich and creamy smoked egg yolk and a hint of tarragon bringing the dish to life. 

During our first dishes, I was a little surprised to see the head chef emerge from the kitchen and wander over to our table with what looked like a boulder. I wasn’t expecting the delights within. This was no boulder but a whole chicken encased in salt clay that had been slow cooked in the oven.  This is the personality of The Moorcock in a nutshell. Fully immersed in the ingredients, the land, the flavour and wanting to share that journey with everyone who comes.

The dish was worth the wait. The chicken coated in rich chicken liver sauce with little bits of samphire adding seasoning and the gravy, oh my the gravy. Heaven on a plate.

The cooling tea of sorrel and meadowsweet that arrived next was the perfect antidote to all that richness.  

I don’t normally opt for a cheese course, I’m usually trying to avoid being overfed by the end of a meal but the offer of Botton Creamery cheese, Moorland Toome, to be exact, was too hard to resist. This needs no messing about. Some medlar paste and homemade oatcakes allowing the cheese to speak for itself. 

We rounded off the evening with pineapple weed ice cream and gooseberries. Simple again, full of flavour again. You don’t see pineapple weed used much but I love it and it was perfectly placed in a light dessert to round off our meal.

I want places like The Moorcock to thrive. Honest cooking; embracing simplicity and the seasons and bringing joy to those who go on the journey with them.

I’ll certainly be back.

My 15 favourite dishes of 2017 (and a little bit more)

2017 has been another wonderful year full of food memories. I have enjoyed every minute of looking through the menus and photos I’ve collected along the way. I admit it was a bit of struggle narrowing it down to my 15 favourite dishes but I’ve done it (with a little bit of bloggers licence along the way)

I was going to say that 2017 started with a bang, but it was more of a sedate start to the year with an indulgent and leisurely lunch in the North Yorkshire countryside at The Black Swan. A highlight dish for me was the halibut with celeriac and celery. The hidden surprises of razor clam and fennel pollen are what made this a particular food memory of 2017. Using bloggers licence though I’d also like to sneak in the ‘snack’ of the chicken dumpling made from brioche filled with confit chicken accompanied by roasted garlic mayonnaise and grated chestnut. I’m actually drooling just typing that. Boy was it good. 

The next highlight dish of the year requires some more blogger’s licence as it was actually a collection of dishes. A mezze in fact, from Honey and Smoke.
The collection of dishes were a taste sensation with the burnt celeriac and cauliflower dishes particularly standing out
A run down of the dishes:
msabaha- chickpeas cooked over night, Turkish pepper and garlic sauce
Winter tomatoes and citrus salad
Burnt celeriac with urfa chilli butter, sour cream and chives
Charred pears with almond tahini and raw honey
Warm goats cheese, red onion, walnut and pomegranate
Falafel and tahini
Cauliflower with homemade amba and tahini

A particular highlight of this year was our evening at Aulis, the development kitchen of Fera at Claridges. A 40th birthday treat for Mr F and an unforgettable evening. I still think about the celeriac, cured yolk and creme fraiche taco we had that evening. The flavour and textures were extraordinary for such a small dish.

As you’ve probably noticed I am a particular fan of Skosh in York. Neil Bentinck, chef patron, can do no wrong in my eyes. I’ve never had a dish that has disappointed so it is often hard to choose what I like most but this year the crisp lamb belly with charred hispi, sumac yoghurt, pickled onion and pomegranate was a highlight.

A little different from the rest is the reindeer carpaccio with parmesan and truffle oil we had at Hotel Ranga in Iceland. We didn’t go to Iceland for the food but the quality of the food and the use of local ingredients at the hotel was a great surprise. The carpaccio was a favourite on the trip.

2017 would not be complete without a dish at another of my favourite places to eat, Le Cochon Aveugle. The baked custard with Sauternes and bitter caramel we had on my birthday was the perfect dessert.

I love seafood. In particular you cannot beat fresh local langoustines. On a visit back home for a family wedding we finally got to The Bull and Ram and having seen Xanthia Clay tweet the day before that she had had langoustines I got rather excited. I was briefly disappointed when they were not on the menu but the wonderful team at Bull and Ram russelled some up for me when I asked. Now that’s service! They were delicious.

Another part of Mr F’s 40th celebrations was a return to L’Enclume. We had not been in five years and I always worry that a return trip to somewhere you have such wonderful memories of can be a mistake but not here. It was incredible and the Herdwick lamb on charcoal and juniper was an absolute stunner.

Gilpin Spice was a fantastic discovery this year. There is nothing else quite like it and it is a great addition to the Lake District. The pork belly dish in particular was sensational and watching it being cooked on the spit roast added to the joy.

We went to the Pig and Whistle not long after it opened and had a great evening. I thrilled to see that it got a mention in the Sunday Times today. The tartiflette au rebouchon was one of my favourites of this year. Melted cheese is always going to feature highlight to be fair but Mr F woke up the next morning and it was the first thing he talked to me about. Memorable.

Sitting on the beach with friends eating the Mackerel wrap from Riley’s Fish Shack was one of my favourite evenings of 2017. The mackerel cooked in the wood oven was delicious and the potatoes, oh my the potatoes were heavenly. I’m planning a repeat in 2018.

We had a fantastic evening at the Chefs of Tomorrow event at Le Cochon Aveugle. It was great to hear from Dan Doherty about how it is championing young chefs and it was great to see an event outside London. The smoked eel ramen dish by Luke Sanderson from Arras was incredible.

I was thrilled that our friend Ben managed to get us all tickets to the Great British Menu evening at the House of Tides. The balance of temperatures and textures in the strawberry and nasturtium dish by Josh Overington was remarkable.

We finally made it to Xu on a recent trip to London. Marina O’Loughlin and Hungry Hoss were not wrong. The Shou Pa chicken is sensational, absolutely sensational.

Our last outing of the year was to Ox Belfast, somewhere I have wanted to go for some time. It was a favourite of the year and in particular a tiny bowl of celeriac, chestnut and thyme will stay with me for a long time. Simple perfection.

So thats my 15 dishes of the year but 2017 could not be without my constants. Life would not be the same without them. It might be a bit predictable but I do plan every year to include them:

A Thai meal at Doi Inthanon in Ambleside. (a tradition started the year Mr F and I met)


Fish and Chips at the Magpie Cafe in Whitby. Heaven.


Sausage rolls from Lucia’s in Ambleside. (they taste even better if you eat them at the top of Easedale Tarn)


Skosh Fried chicken – it should be served in a big bucket. I’d eat a bucketful very happily.


Lobster at Harry’s Shack. It’s the highlight of my summer.


Coffee and breakfast at Babushka preferably sitting outside staring at the sea.


Patisserie from Shutishuti but in particular Eszter’s custard tart. It is THE best.


Crab stotties and a pint at The Ship Inn, Low Newton on Sea.


Haxby Baker bread, in particular Vänskapsbröd, Swedish friendship bread.


A Bacon naan roll from Dishoom.


Hash browns from homeground cafe in Windermere. They should also come in a big bucket.

Wine and charcuterie at Cave du Cochon. It puts a smile on our faces. We love everything about it. 

 

Eating Out in August

August was a month of anniversary celebrations, The Great British Menu, holidays and, you guessed it, food… lots of food.

Lord Crewe Arms
Mr F did a grand job of finding this gem of a place for a weekend away. Sitting right in the centre of the historic village of Blanchland, not far from Hexham, the Lord Crewe Arms is steeped in history. Our room was part of the old Abbey, and the original stained glass and window seat provided the perfect place to watch the world go by.
We primarily stayed for some time out and a chance to walk but the Lord Crewe provided a simple menu focusing on local ingredients that were executed well. The fish and the flat iron steak dishes were particularly flavoursome and cooked well. Other dishes didn’t quite hit the mark but overall we enjoyed the food as part of a wonderful place to stay and relax.

Oshibi
This place has been on my list for some time and it didn’t disappoint. You have to be prepared for anything. Even if you have booked a table it doesn’t necessarily mean there is a table for you but it’s the worth the roulette! Oshibi has a feel of eating in someone’s home about it; the sense of welcome suggesting you are friends going round for dinner. The menu says that Korean dining is informal. Yes, yes it is and I loved it. Before we had even decided what to eat we were gifted a soju shot. I’m not sure what it was but the evening brightened up after drinking it. We opted for the Korean table grill. There was a sense of fun in cooking our own strips of meat and enjoying the range of kimchis and dips that went alongside it, these were a real highlight of the meal. The lightly picked garlic was bursting with flavour and the kimchis brought the dish alive.
We also ordered some yachae mandu (vegetable dumplings) which I’d definitely order again. Oshibi is definitely somewhere to go again and again. It’s quirky and chaotic at times but the food holds its own and there is nowhere else quite like it. That is what makes it somewhere special.

A Great British Menu evening at the House of Tides
I have York on a Fork to thank for ensuring we didn’t miss out on this incredible evening. There are not many opportunities to have your evening planned and cooked for you by three outstanding chefs. The different styles and influences of each chef complimented each other throughout the menu beautifully with no sense of competition. A series of snacks were a fitting start to an evening that felt celebratory. The pork and smoked eel bonbon was an absolute triumph and the carrot and fennel pollen macaron so delicate yet full of flavour. Following the snacks we got into the main dishes from each chef starting with Josh Overington’s strawberry and nasturtium dish. This one messed with my head, the balance of flavours and temperatures making you really think about what you were eating and the granola adding a wonderful texture. It was a stunning dish and one of my favourites of the night. Next up was Danny Parker’s salad twenty two. The complex flavours were balanced so beautifully and I found myself wanted to pay attention to every mouthful and really appreciate each distinct ingredient. Next we had the fish course that got Tommy Banks to the GBM banquet: Turbot, strawberries and cream. At the time I watched this on TV I remember thinking Tommy had gone quite quite mad but oh my was I proved wrong. It was a stunning dish. Even more pleasing for me was that the strawberries come from my local farm shop. This was another of my favourites of the night. The colour, flavours and textures were a marriage made in heaven. Next up was the Gloucester old spot, pineapple and onion by Danny Parker. I love pineapple and it was a real hit in this dish. We then moved on to desserts and the first by Josh Overington completed my top three of the evening. A wild herb pannacotta with the wonderful flavour and fragrance of woodruff making it an absolute delight to eat. Last but not least was Tommy Banks hay time dessert that was an adaptation from the original to include a little ice cream slider. I enjoyed the dish but it didn’t have the same strength of flavour to sit alongside the rest of the menu. We finished the evening off with some stunning chocolates and coffee before heading back on the train. The skill and passion for food that these chefs brought to the table will last long in my memory, what a spectacular evening.

A trip home to Northern Ireland:

Ocho Tapas
I’ve heard a lot about Ocho Tapas and we finally got the chance to book a table. Our timing wasn’t brilliant as half the world was in Portrush for a band championship but we successfully parked the car and recovered with a glass of wine while perusing the menu. This isn’t a typical tapas place, the dishes are tapas in style in that they are a series of small plates but this is ‘small’ Northern Irish style so expect to eat rather a lot! The highlights were lamb with cauliflower and the goats cheese croquettes with beetroot pannacotta. Both very different, the lamb dish rustic, robust and packing a punch, the goats cheese and beetroot refined, delicate and light. In many ways these sum up Ocho Tapas. It’s eclectic but there are little delights along the way and I’d recommend you go visit.

Harry’s Shack
I cannot go home without a visit to Harry’s Shack. It is completely my kind of place with a focus on local fish and seafood cooked to perfection. August visits always mean lobster. I mean, why wouldn’t you….

Ursa Minor Bakehouse
A trip home also also means bread and cakes at Ursa Minor and this time we got to visit their new, bigger, Bakehouse and cafe in Ballycastle. It is a fantastic place to spend a morning. The new cafe is beautifully designed and the ability to go downstairs and see the Bakehouse just adds to the enjoyment.

Pizza nights at Lost and Found
The new Friday night opening at L&F provided the perfect excuse to catch up with friends and enjoy great food. The pizza menu is small but perfectly formed. Be warned though it gets very busy so make sure you get there early!

Babushka
You’ve probably worked out already that we spend a LOT of time here. The coffee is perfect, the food a joy to eat, the people a joy to know and the view: nowhere else on earth like it. That’s all I need to say.

Harry’s Derry
A first visit to the new restaurant in the Craft Village. Full review here: https://www.frivolitea.co.uk/2017/09/01/harrys-craft-village-derry/

Eating out in July

July was another great month of eating with friends, inspiring young chefs and a weekend by the sea.

Riley’s Fish Shack

There is nothing better than local fish and seafood cooked simply and you can’t get any better than Riley’s Fish Shack.  A wooden shack nestled in St Edward’s Bay in Tynemouth using a wood fired oven to do most of the cooking – it’s perfect.  The food is sensational and tasting the sea air as you eat it is a little slice of heaven.  Be prepared to queue. Trust me it is worth the wait and you might want to get an extra portion of the potatoes, one portion isn’t enough.

The Chefs of Tomorrow Project at Le Cochon Aveugle

We are great fans of Dan Doherty and have been following this project for a while. We were delighted that the project decided to move out of London and come to York, allowing young chefs in our area to showcase their talent.  This was an evening I won’t forget in a hurry and makes me very excited about the future of food in our region.  The young chefs from Arras, Home, The Black Swan at Oldstead and Le Cochon Aveugle showed such skill and talent in a rather daunting setting. The starter of eel ramen created by Luke from Arras was up there with the best.

Lunch at Skosh

Yes I know, we went again but the food is incredible and exceptionally good value.  The pineapple, rum and smoke cocktail was mind blowing and I partularly loved the new smoked trout dish.

 

York on a Fork’s first Streetfood Sunday

Streetfood Sunday at the Fulford Arms is the brilliant idea of York on a Fork.  A selection of streetfood (this month by Street Cleaver and Ruby’s Kitchen) great beer and sitting in the sun with friends; there is no better way to spend a Sunday afternoon.  Follow York on a Fork on Twitter or Facebook to find out about dates and go along if you can.

A weekend in Scarborough

I will find any excuse to escape to the sea.  I love the summer months when we can escape in the van and enjoy local food.  This is the first time we tried The Plough at Scalby and we were impressed.  The local lobster was a big hit and they had a great selection of local beers and gins.  We will definitely go back.

No trip to Scarborough is complete with a trip to Cowshed. A particular favourite of ours and the sweet potato fries are amazing.  Make sure you book as it gets really busy.

A weekend in Edinburgh: Norn

I was rather excited to book Norn.  It’s been on the list ever since I read Marina O’Louglin’s review in the Guardian.  This place is incredible. It uses lots of techniques to preserve native ingredients and takes even the humble carrot and makes it the most flavoursome thing you’ve ever eaten. The natural wines list is also rather spectacular.  I loved the blurred lines between the kitchen and front of house as chefs brought out the dishes to the table and I would fight people for that bread and butter. Oh my it’s delicious.

If you are looking for somewhere relaxed to enjoy wine, charcuterie and cheese in Edinburgh then look no further than Smith and  Gertrude.  I love this place and go every time I’m in Edinburgh. The staff are great, the ever changing wine selection always has something exciting on it and the food just right to while away a few hours on an evening.